El Autobus es Roja

Hola!

After our school sessions in Valparaiso we are now proficient Spanish readers, labouring speakers and confused listeners. 

Worryingly, in the three weeks since we retired, a four hour session of schooling each day has become a huge feat of mental stamina. What is a reflexive verb? Are prepositions and articles really necessary? Surely a simple verb-noun combo will suffice. And then I read this article which confirms my fears; holidays make you stupid. So now not only do we speak Spanish of a stilted 5 year old child, we can expect the rest of our faculties to gradually decline to match.

Valparaiso

Much admired apartment on our walk to school. Vina del Mar and the Andes in the haze behind.

Thankfully, our tutor Daniella was unimaginably patient and we have grasped quite a bit in a short period of time. We are definitely noticing improvements with every encounter.  Key learning: embarazado = pregnant, not embarrassed.

Dogs. Everywhere in this continent but handy for leading the way to Quintay.

Our afternoons after school were spent exploring Valparaiso and surrounding areas. On the advice of our hostel owner we made the short trip south to the fishing village of Quintay. The only other piece of advice he offered was a suggestion of a good lunch spot with the caveat that the meals were massive - one main to share, he said. 

We ignore this, of course, and when my plate of fish and chips arrive his words ring true. There is enough for a small South Auckland family on a Friday night. Nic's swordfish covers half the plate, drapes over the sides and if this isn't enough the chef, presumably mistaking us for Mr Creosote and co, has stacked an additional wedge on top. Rachel and Steve, who we met at the hostel and join us on our trip, make a similar blunder. 

We all take our seats on the bus home and fall into a glutton's slumber.

Quintay. A small fishing village South of Valparaiso.

Small fishing village, but giant fish

And she ate it all

Assimilation

The view from our hostel doorstep

The Chilean government is currently amidst a tense wrangle with university students all across the country. Every Thursday, students march up the main streets towards the government buildings of Santiago and Valparaiso. They are demanding more affordable and accessible tertiary education and for the last 3 months the government has refused to cave in. These protests have escalated to the point now that the police meet them armed with riot gear, armoured trucks and tear gas. 

All of which we were oblivious to. 

So after a particularly slothful and indulgent day (just one more) we decide to go for an evening run around the hills. We write off the initial sting in the eyes as dirty contacts and lingering smog. But quickly this becomes an eye-watering, nose burning, coughing attack. Tear gas has blown up the valley. The run ends before we've had a chance to burn off the calories of only the smallest mouthfuls of empanada. At the foot of the hill, students have lit a strip of fire across the road. Far too close for comfort, people are refilling their cars at the petrol station on a nearby corner. We decide that this must be the norm in developing countries and head home to the news that London is being torched.

While London burns, Chilean students stage their own riots. Banging pots and pans is a favourite.

A throwback from the 19th Century, ascensors are scattered across the hills in Valparaiso. A good investment for 100 pesos.  

 The pass across the Argentina/Chile border

And the Argentines are accused of trying to be Euro...

For everyone that said they wouldn't go the distance

An afternoon in the park. Mendoza winters are seemingly endless blue sky and warm temps.

Last Saturday we left Valparaiso and made our way across the border to Argentina for a brief stopover on the way to the ski fields of Las Lenas. With only two days to spend in Mendoza (rather than the week we had initially planned), we headed out to explore its famous vineyards by bike. The countryside is picturesque and cycling is the perfect way to hop between the vineyards. The weather played the part and we had a lovely afternoon eating, drinking and cycling. 

Mevi bodega, Mendoza 

An easy place to spend an afternoon

The return home. A new found confidence on the roads post-vineyard #4. 

That's all for the moment. Will report back from Las Lenas soon.

Thanks for all the emails and messages, it is great to hear news from home and abroad.

If anyone else would like to send grammar tips for the next episode please send to my email. My spam folder awaits.